Sunday morning saw a solid clean swell hitting the NSW coast and with the boys frothing over a certain point break down south, we made sure we were there before first light.The waves revealed themselves to be 6ft plus wrapping all the way down the reef and with the first chill in the air we threw our wetties on for the first time in over 6 months.
Everything about this morning was magical, There was little to no wind, glassy conditions, the crowds were down, the paddle out was easy, the huge A frame peaks out the back breaking top to bottom made it look like images of backdoor with the backlit lips throwing wide and the waves, well they were big long winding walls of pure enjoyment.
I lost count of the many waves I scored but 3 stand out from the rest:
- The first was a full rail jam fest all the way from the peak to past the boat shed loosing count of the turns after about 20.
- The next was a wave that thew out so far and kept reeling down the line that after about 8-10 seconds of pumping inside this frothy beast, I started to pump harder so I could make it out and do a turn. Best Barrel in about 3 years.
- The last was more about the experience of it all, the wave itself was probably nothing to rave about, but as I pulled off the back I ended up in the middle of 3 dolphins swimming back out, 1 either side and one in front of me. As I started to paddle they stayed in their formation and guided me back out through the lineup, probably only 1 metre either side of me. Looking up as I paddled back out I was watching the backlit lips and spray light up from the amazing sunrise behind them as others got shacked or blew the backs out of each wave. If you could gauge happiness on a scale of 1-100 this was off the charts. Spiritual.
I know that photos don’t really do a day like this justice. But there is one dedicated guy who is at the point most days clicking away. His site www.sandonpointphotos.com is a place to check out your surf shots if you were out there, or just dream about it if you weren’t.
Check it out and sign up for a daily burst of South Coast goodness.
Here are a bunch of images the man behind the lens “clarrie bouma” took of Sundays Gems.